Perfect Macaroni and Cheese

• good-quality white bread↗6 slices

  crusts removed, torn into 1/4- to 1/2-inch pieces

• unsalted butter↗8 tablespoons

  plus more for dish

• milk↗5 1⁄2 cups
• all-purpose flour↗1⁄2 cup
• kosher salt↗2 teaspoons
• freshly grated nutmeg1⁄4 teaspoon
• fresh ground black pepper↗1⁄4 teaspoon
• cayenne pepper↗1⁄4 teaspoon
• grated sharp white cheddar cheese4 1⁄2 cups

  about 18 ounces

• grated gruyere or pecorino romano cheese2 cups

  about 8 ounces grated gruyere or 1 1/4 cups about 5 ounces grated pecorino romano

• elbow macaroni↗1 lb

Step-by-step instructions

1. 1

   1. Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 3-quart casserole dish; set aside. Place bread pieces in a medium bowl. In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Pour butter into the bowl with bread, and toss. Set the breadcrumbs aside. In a medium saucepan set over medium heat, heat milk. Melt remaining 6 tablespoons butter in a high-sided skillet over medium heat. When butter bubbles, add flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

2. 2

   2. Slowly pour hot milk into flour-butter mixture while whisking. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles and becomes thick.

3. 3

   3. Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in salt, nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne pepper, 3 cups cheddar, and 1 1/2 cups Gruyere or 1 cup pecorino Romano. Set cheese sauce aside.

4. 4

   4. Fill a large saucepan with water. Bring to a boil. Add macaroni; cook 2 to 3 fewer minutes than manufacturer's directions, until outside of pasta is cooked and inside is underdone. (Different brands of macaroni cook at different rates; be sure to read the instructions.) Transfer the macaroni to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well. Stir macaroni into the reserved cheese sauce.

5. 5

   5. Pour the mixture into the prepared casserole dish. Sprinkle remaining 1 1/2 cups cheddar and 1/2 cup Gruyere or 1/4 cup pecorino Romano; scatter breadcrumbs over the top. Bake until browned on top, about 30 minutes. Transfer dish to a wire rack to cool for 5 minutes; serve.